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Debating on going from physical amps to the simulation route
2018.09.05 20:21 CaspinDebating on going from physical amps to the simulation route
I currently have a pretty decent set up with an Orange Bass Terror 1000w plugged into an Ampeg SVT 810E cabinet. While the Orange is a great sounding amp and provides way more than enough output for any show I go to, I've been wanting to go the amp simulation route but have hesitated due to the high cost of entry to get an amp simulator from Fractal or Kemper. Then, I stumble upon darkglass's new preamp distortion pedal, the Darkglass B7K Ultra V2, which has a built in cabinet simulator that you can edit on the PC and upload it to the pedal itself. I guess the question is... what would your guy's thoughts be on ditching a traditional amp, and then go about buying a a DI pedal and Amp power supply like the QSC GX5 Power Amplifier into a bass cabinet? I would eventually like to upgrade to a Kemper or an Axe FX at a later date. Am I over thinking this or is this not going to work out like I think it will?
Hello! I am currently using an Ampeg SVT-CL and have only played in venues that either provide an 8x10 or are small enough to use one of my rumble practice amps. My band is getting alot more serious and i need a cabinet to use. Right now i am looking to pick up a 4x10 and from what i understand, the SVT 410 HLF or the OBC410 are the two top contenders. I'm just looking for good honest up to date opinions on these cabinets or other good directions to looking into!
2016.06.09 03:00 mr13umpHelp me date my Ampeg SVT-CL!
http://imgur.com/gallery/ktqYy Here is a link to a picture of the serial number. I can't seem to figure out exactly what year it is. I was not the first owner, but I believe it should be in the mid to late 2000s. Any help would be appreciated.
2016.03.08 12:06 burkholderia[Discussion] So you've decided to buy a vintage tube amp (xpost /r/bass)
I posted this over on /bass last week and someone suggested I post it here too. Wanted to update a few things first. I recently picked up a late 60s/early 70s ampeg B25B (component codes date this to 72) in need of some basic maintenance for a girl of a certain age (ie a cap job) and thought this might be a fun time to share some progress pics of what goes into this kind of work for anyone who was curious about what exactly goes on under the hood when you send an old amp in for service. Note that I'm not trying to encourage people to go poking about in their amps if they don't understand the safety precautions. Please observe all safety measures and don't take on any work like this if you don't know how to discharge the caps, check voltages, etc. (tl;dr alert) If you want to skip the reading and look at some pictures here's the album with some descriptions on each image. For those who wish to follow along, let's dive in: Ain't she a beaut? The transformers look fantastic for the age. Picked this up for a pretty fair price on reverb.com, touted as "all original minus the following mods" I knew pretty much what I was in for. Not so far gone that it will be a 6 month project to bring it back to factory spec, but not really all original either. The mods mentioned were that the speaker taps had been wired direct for 8 and 16 ohm outputs and the high boost was disabled. The speaker tap change is a great change to make to these amps and one I would have done myself, stock the main output is wired to 16 ohms with a shorting switch for 8 ohm parallel operation if you run two 16 ohm cabs. 16 ohm bass cabs are pretty damn rare. The original B25B cabs were two 8 ohm drivers with a series parallel switch for 4/16 ohms (actually the first year was just straight 16 ohms) allowing them to sell the amp with one or two cabs, but also sell the cabs to be paired with the other bass amps of the time (V4B, SVT, etc). The high switch was simply cut from the switch, but the switch was also broken and needed to be replaced. Another mod has been done to the bass boost circuit that I'll need to track down at some point, but for now my goal was to get the amp working. The best part of buying old amps is when they come stuffed with old glass that still tests good/works. This amp had RCA 12AX7s for the preamp, RCA 7199 phase inverter, GE 7027A power tubes, and an RCA 5AR4 rectifier. There's potential that they're original, but they should last a good long time. Maybe. Hopefully. Anyways they look pretty. The down side of buying old amps like this is that when they're "all originalish" they tend to all have the original electrolytic caps. This one had a leaky 30uf/600V cap on either the output tube plate or screen supply. Which may also explain why the amp had a 10A fuse. The proper wiring for these should be a 3A external fuse and a 6A internal fuse (or on the earlier models just the 3A external). The 6A internal was supposedly added to prevent people from damaging the amp by bypassing the fuse with some tinfoil or a nail or something and doing damage. When the caps leak like this they cause ripple. That ripple on the B+ or screen supply is going to oscillate your power tubes and likely cause a fuse to blow. A higher rated fuse might handle this for a little longer. It's very possible the person who was using this amp had a problem with it and decided to off load instead of repair. I corrected the wiring here with a 6A internal fuse, 3A external, and you can also see the added ground connection to the power transformechassis connection. Speaking of grounded power cords, this one came to me with the stock 2 prong plug. These were still in use by ampeg until about 72/73 when they switched over to 3 prong plugs and outlets. For this amp I used an 18 gauge cord, normally I like to use a nice heavier duty 16 or 14 gauge, but to keep the original strain relief intact I had to go smaller. Or drill into the chassis, sometime I was definitely tying to avoid. The polarity switch (also labeled ground on other amps like vintage fenders) switches the hot and neutral lines through a cap to ground. The stock cap is a 0.047uf/600V cap which had broken open and leaked all over the board in this amp. This cap gets the name death cap because if it fails short and you switch the polarity the wrong way you're now putting line voltage onto the chassis of the amp and can get shocked. Modern amps which incorporate polarity switches for a line filter will use what's called a safety cap. Here I've replaced the polarity cap with a Y2 type safety cap. These caps are designed to never fail short, they'll fail open to prevent you from getting a shock. Some people like to just remove the cap altogether and disable the polarity/ground switch, I like to keep it stock and have the optional line filter should I need it. The nice metal can capacitors are great, but also pricey. I got a cap kit from fliptops.net for the cost of just getting a replacement metal can so I oped to go with that. The kit had a 50/50 instead of the 40/40 in the metal can, but a little overage isn't the end of the world, if anything it will stiffen the bass response a tad. The problem I ran into was that since the metal can caps route the ground through the can (isolated from the chassis with a fiberglass pad), you can use all four of the connections for your ground leads. Here I had to add some support posts and wire them together to get all the cap ground connections to the same place without rerouting a bunch of wires. Also had to install a cap clamp mount, but no big deal there, the holes existed already. You can see how small the new 30uf/600V caps are. They came with plastic clamp mounts from fliptops but they were a bit loose, needed to use something non-conductive to mount those. I tried out a new 2 part epoxy for holding them in place and it failed miserably. I didn't mix it right. Scooped as much of that out as I could and just hot glued the things in place. Pretty standard move, but it never comes out looking as clean as I want. From the underside of the board you can see the other parts that needed to be replaced, mostly just the high wattage/wire wound resistors between the caps, the bias supply caps for the power tubes and bias cap for the PI, the bias supply diode, and the dummy load resistor. I opted not to replace the bias supply resistors at this time as they all tested in spec (with no voltage applied at least). I wanted to see how the power tubes ran before changing anything, and I was out of 56K 1/2W resistors anyways. Next thing I did to the amp for now was to clean the pots, switches, sockets, and jacks with deoxit. Basically just sprayed some deoxit into the pot mechanism and dial them around a bit. For the jacks and sockets a brush or swab is a good idea to really rub the cleaner on there and wipe away any dirt/corrosion. I usually use some medical type cotton swabs or an interdental brush. After scrubbing the tube sockets, these weren't really all that bad. When I play tested the amp I got some occasional static/scratchiness so I figured I'd retension the tube sockets while I had it open this time. There's a good guide here from BillM, but it's really a fairly straightforward process. Definitely make sure the caps are drained as you'll be poking directly at the tube pins which are connected to your supply caps. I use a small eye glass flatheat screw driver, some of them were pretty wide open and difficult to get the flathead in there. After tightening, not a huge noticeable difference but the tubes fit snugly now. This one is a bit Ampeg specific but worth checking out on an old amp like this. Ampeg used fully contained PEC tone modules for their baxandall/james tone stack circuits. The PEC modules contain the caps and resistors for the tone circuit but as they're made with carbon comp resistors and ceramic caps the values can drift over time. A friend had designed these replacement boards available from OSHpark. I did them in my B15 a while back and it helped a bit on the high end. I opted to replace the one on channel 2 on this amp as it had some noise problems as I adjusted the tone controls. Here's the loaded board. The replacement board is a bit larger than the original module so I had to mount it to the back of the tone control board, but they fit well. The PEC boards from this amp and my B15. You can see the date codes have the EIA number 134 which corresponds to centralab. The pile of removed parts. I think that covers most of it. Anywho, for anyone who was curious, if you take your amp in for a cap job, this is basically what happens.
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Two great amps! 1964 Fender Jazz Bass Fiesta Red & 1966 Ampeg B18N I 'Giant Steps' - Duration: 2:18. Imperial Vintage Guitars 2,606 views As some respondents commented, it is indeed an antenna-farm worthy of 'Voice of America' (dating myself here) underneath the chassis and this, no doubt, contributes to instabilities. Bassicsgear // 1970/1971 Ampeg Blueline SVT // Ampeg 1x15 (mod 4 ohm) 1971 Fender Precision Zaolla Silverline Cable Alessandro High End Amp 2 Speaker Cable. The comparison covers 4 pieces of Ampeg's classic - 810 cabinet also known as 'The Fridge'. You can find out how the vintage one from 1974 sounds, as well as... PF-115HE, SVT-810E, SVT-810AV, PF-410HLF. What do all those letters mean anyway? Are they just there to look cool? Absolutely not - there is meaning in those... 1965 Ampeg B-15N(C) Portaflex Demo. Fender Geddy Lee Jazz Bass w/ Audere Preamp (flat settings) Ampeg SVT vintage alnico CTS speakers vs Eminence Legend reïssue bass speakers - Duration: 34:35. Jasper Mortier 4,693 views. 34:35. Queens of the Stone Age live @ Montreux Festival 2018 [FULL ... Ampeg SVT VR Amplifier Repair - Duration: 14:39. Dave's World of Fun Stuff 59,935 views. 14:39. Ampeg SVT CL Repair And Testing - Duration: 14:35. ElPaso TubeAmps 13,524 views.